Influenced, and Then Thinking Twice

It turned that what I wanted was right there all along. Also, some thoughts about alterations

Recently, something I’ve wanted for about a year became available. I pounced, added it to cart, whipped out my credit card…and changed my mind.

(Not much of a story, but this sadly, doesn’t happen as often as I hope it does, so hear me out.)

The item in question was the Tibi balloon skirt — a piece I wanted so much that I signed myself up to be notified when it became available. It was a lovely shape — slim and structured at the hip before loosening up and gently curving out, before curving in again. The nylon material should give me pause — it is neither eco-friendly to make these fabrics, nor to dispose of them — but I was drawn to its lightness and convenience, thinking it would make a great travel piece.

While I loved (and still love) the design of the skirt, I had nagging thought that this was one of those things I had talked myself into wanting. I love a good skirt and I wear them regularly, but I generally prefer trousers, and I certainly did not need this skirt. I didn’t give it much thought when I saw it; it was repeatedly seeing it how great it on others that swayed me. And once I saw it was no longer available, the sense of FOMO increased.

I went down the rabbit hole of searching for it online, saving photos of people wearing it, looking for alternatives — months of thinking about it, so that when it became available, I could justify buying it by saying, well, I’ve wanted it for months. I could blame influencers but for the most part, I think influenced myself.

Well, last month, it finally became available and I was this close to simply hitting ‘buy’ before I had too much time to think about it. But I decided to give myself a couple of days to think about it. Also I got very distracted by work.

And then, an idea occurred to me. I go to my closet and fish out an old COS dress that has a similar balloon skirt. I bought the dress in 2018 and wore it often enough to work, but it never became a favourite because I didn’t like the large armholes (when I raised my arms the whole dress gets pulled up). Once I switched to WFH full-time, I stopped wearing it all together, but I kept it because I liked the fabric as well as the skirt.

Maybe I could rework the dress into a skirt?

The dress. It’s 100% cotton, and has a balloon skirt like the Tibi skirt, but without the asymmetrical hem.

I took the dress to a tailor near my home who has great reviews on Google. Happily, she immediately understood the look and feel I wanted: invisible zip, minimal darts, keeping the volume and extending the length. She explained exactly how she would do it, and recommended a sensible length that she felt looked best on me. I felt I was in good hands.

I picked up the skirt a couple weeks later, and it turned out nearly perfect — sadly I forgot to ask her to add side pockets. Aside from that, I’m thrilled with the skirt. It’s the best parts of the old dress, turned into something I would get a lot more wear out of.

Don’t get me wrong — I still think the Tibi skirt is a great piece for anyone looking to add a ‘classic with a twist’ type skirt to their wardrobe. And I’m not against buying things: I understand how it feels when you find something that really, really resonates with you. But I knew that while I would be happy with the Tibi skirt (provided it fit), I would also be equally happy without it. A part of me recognised that I was allowing myself to be influenced into getting something, and forcing myself into a “cooling down” period before I hit pay helped me realise that there were other ways for this story to end.

Some thoughts about alterations

I’ve always been a big fan of alterations, thanks to my late mum’s deft skills with a sewing machine and mania for a good fit. Most of my alterations are about improving the fit — I’m on the tall side, often between sizes, and I like ease in my clothes, so I developed a habit of buying things in a bigger size and getting them altered (thanks mum!).

But my most satisfying alterations involve transforming something I no longer wear into something new, whether it’s simply cutting a pair of jeans into shorts, chopping an old t-shirt into a cropped tee, or turning an old dress into a blouse. I’ve noticed that even when I’m no longer into the style of a garment, I’m usually still quite keen on the fabric, and alterations are a great to tap into the potential of these pieces.

I have friends who flinch at the idea of spending money on professional alterations, especially when it can sometimes cost more than what you paid for the item (I spent A$80 this time, more than what I paid for the dress, which had been on sale).

But the right item and type of alteration is worth the expertise; in the case of my old COS dress/new skirt, it needed a waistband, an invisible zipper, a couple of well-placed darts, and some pleats to bring out the shape of the skirt. I also needed someone to measure me to make sure the piece fit well. All this deserves the kind of charges it goes for.

Obviously, all of this only works if the alterations are executed well, and I have had my fair share of unhappy encounters with tailors, so here are some things to keep in mind that could make finding and working with a tailor a smoother experience:

• Know your style. It’s hard for tailors to read your mind and understand what style you are going for. Be super clear about what you are looking to do, and if you can, bring visual references and items of clothing that you like.

• Know your preferred fit and go prepared. I’ve had clothes that were taken in too much — they fit, but not in the way I liked. Be painfully repetitive with your tailor on how you prefer your clothes to sit and bring visual references. Earlier this year, I’d brought a pair of jeans to another tailor to have them taken in (I was swimming in them), and he initially pinned a much tighter fit at the hip and waist. So I showed him photos of how the item looked as shown by the brand (lots of volume and ease), and stressed that I wanted to keep the integrity of the cut, and he understood (and altered it to perfection).

• Understand and respect what a tailor can and cannot do. There is a difference between hemming a pair of jeans and say, resetting or shortening the sleeve of a tailored jacket. And not all tailors are familiar with handling delicate fabrics like silk chiffon. Read reviews, ask about the kind of work they do, and be realistic about whether they can deliver what you are asking for.

• Test waters. Start with something simple, like hemming, tapering or taking in the waist, and work your way to more complicated projects. Not only do you get to gauge the skill of the tailor, you also get used to the process and learn how to ask for what you want.

• Walk away if you don’t feel good. It’s not just about whether a tailored is skilled; it’s whether the tailor understands the style you are seeking. If you get the sense that he or she doesn’t quite understand what you’re asking for, don’t do it.

• Learn from them. Ask the tailor why something can or cannot be done, what are the steps involved in the alteration you are seeking, and why they do things a certain way. It’ll make you appreciate the craft that goes into making clothes, and may even help you recognise quality and shop better.

• Be okay with the fact that it may not always work out. Sometimes what we had in mind may not work out great in real life, even if perfectly executed. It’s always going to be a risk.

Finally, not every piece is worth altering. The item should still be in good condition, and it should be good quality — the fabric, in particular, needs to be nice and robust.

Also, if something is superbly made, maybe it should just go to someone who will treasure it as is; it can be a shame to take apart something that took incredible skill to make. But this is relative — we don’t all live in places where there is a ready market for such pieces and I would rather see something lovingly reworked and worn, than sent to a landfill with no takers.

Is there a piece of clothing in your wardrobe that you’d like to ‘make over’?